Long ago, before the stern doctrine of locavorism took root in kitchens throughout the land, New Yorkers used to fantasize about the next big food craze from abroad. more →
Seviches, oxtail empanadas or smoked-brisket arepas, arroz con pato, pumpkin picarrón.
While this pan-Latin restaurant profiles as a place for singles, it is often the opposite: substantial, interesting, slightly eccentric. more →
Chicharrons, octopus and pork belly anticuchos, pollo a la brasa consomme, surf-clam ceviche; dinners for two: roast chicken; steak; arroz con pato; suckling pig.
Some restaurants seem destined for disaster even before they debut. Nuela, a long-delayed Pan-Latin behemoth, arrived in the Flatiron District this summer with more baggage than a Samsonite sample sale. Its original chef, Douglas Rodriguez, abandoned the project last year, and the glitzy restaurant—splashed floor to ceiling in garish shades of orange and red, like a Latin dance club—highlights a style of cooking that all but died with the ’90s. Against these odds, the big surprise is how well the place actually works. more →
Salt-cod fritters, beef-heart anticucho, toro ceviche, duck rice, suckling pig.
‘I can’t emphasize enough that you should eat our foie gras croquetas whole,” the Nuela waitress cheerfully advised us. Correct: Try nibbling, and you’ll only make a mess. more →
