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Lamb: As familiar and comforting as a classic Greenmarket lamb chop, and as artfully decadent as anything you’ll find in the grand restaurants of Paris or Rome.
Allow us to present the best of NY Eating, including falafel on wheels, succulent cheeks, and the gooiest grilled cheese. http://nymag.com/bestofny/food
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Lamb: As familiar and comforting as a classic Greenmarket lamb chop, and as artfully decadent as anything you’ll find in the grand restaurants of Paris or Rome.
Beets: To the juices that remain after pickling beets for a salad, add fresh lemon, a pinch of sugar, et voilà, one beet-lemon shrub—the vaguely vinegary, wholly refreshing revival of a Colonial-era tonic.
Broccoli: Does tempura-frying broccoli and dousing it in hot-pickled-pepper aïoli and Grana Padano diminish its nutritive value? Does it matter?
Brussels Sprouts: More ammunition against the anti-sprout camp, these are flash-fried and aggressively seasoned with Old Bay and citrus.
Carrots: The vegetarian answer to Momofuku pork buns: dough tinted with carrot juice, a barbecued-carrot filling, and a carrot-hoisin dipping sauce.
Cauliflower: What distinguishes this version from all others? The chefs’ insistence on the lowbrow garnish of their youth: Progresso bread crumbs.
Antipasti: The four antipasti change nightly, so you never know what bit of inspired whimsy you might encounter—a melting mass of Parisi Bakery’s salami bread, topped with lemon-zested baccalà, say, or a cucumber salad with pickles procured from an Essex Street shop.
Escarole: A salad with oomph: wilted bitter leaves strewn with anchovy-infused croutons, and a dressing that pulls no punches.
Kale: A shredded-kale salad that stands out in an increasingly crowded field, thanks to rich additions like toasted hazelnuts and Grana Padano.
Salsify: The only thing better than slow-poaching salsify batons in red wine and honey, it appears, is encasing them in parchment with a cache of Roquefort cheese.
Squash: As befits a seasonal menu, dishes here come and go. But the deep-fried delicata rings, showered with goat cheese and maple syrup, better come back soon.